In fairness to Dior, it’s been a challenging time in the fashion house. Raf Simons left the label, leaving the ship without a rudder. In his absence, Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier stepped in as long-time Dior designers to lead the Spring Couture 2016 collection.
The unfortunate thing is that it missed the mark of couture. And really, it’s not their fault – they were just continuing the direction that Raf Simons had already taken. A minimalist, Simons had taken the fashion house into a more RTW direction than the John Galliano era of bigger, more extravagant embellished couture. Yet Simons had a knack for perfection, a must when choosing more simplicity. And you know, his looks were gorgeous wearable looks, but even his last couture collection for Dior wasn’t exciting to me like other couture shows.
Comparison: Raf Simons Couture v. John Galliano Couture
After his departure, the resulting collection seems even more relaxed. Too relaxed for couture. Very pretty, very wearable. But couture? I’m not so sure, regardless of the quality of material or folding technique used. It’s still something that I could wear to work.
Where’s the excitement? The art? The haute innovations? The looks were a continuation of Simons’ concepts, like the bar suit reinterpretations, off the shoulder rounded necklines (I do love these), embroidered panels, and intricate origami-style folding. Yet they lacked his precision, leaving the collection feeling a little lifeless. Minimalist only works in couture when it is perfect. Otherwise, it just feels boring.