Taking inspiration from European fashions of the 18th century, Zuhair Murad designed his Spring 16 Couture looks around placing women in a figurative “gilded cage”, which translated into a literal pannier hoop skirt.
The designer took great care in balancing the proportions of the silhouettes with a concept that could go way left in the costume direction if he’s not careful. Overall he was successful in achieving that by only using the larger hoops with the leg-showing mini dresses, and minimizing the size of the hoops for the longer gowns, creating a streamlined look.
The looks were still noticeably Zuhair Murad, with sheer organza, tulle, and lace with embroidered designs and florals hugging the body. The latest trend of latticework along with metallic belts made a substantial presence in the collection. While other designers used stitched or print lattice, Murad chose to do a more literal take with corsets. The metallic belts had square cutouts like film strips and 3D leaves, creating an edgy counter to the soft florals underneath.
Overall, the looks were fun, fresh, and youthful. Like many collections of the season, there was a noticeable effort to create plenty of options to buyers looking to show a little leg with chic mini dresses. And of course, his couture gowns are as always, feminine and gorgeous.