The Peter Pilotto aesthetic is certainly becoming solidified in my mind. Austrian, folk craft-derived, but polished, modern, and sophisticated. For his Fall 2016 RTW season, he took a break from childhood games, and brought his collection closer to home, using ice-laden Nordic landscapes and skiing as his inspiration.
The runway looks were only a nod to the current vintage trend in the midi and maxi silhouettes with imperial collars and the misguided new trend of socked sandals. Thankfully, the rest of the collection redeemed itself.
The icy inspiration was realized in beautiful colored embroideries in frosty blue and white, with a tiny bit of coral thrown in for contrast. It reminded me just a little of when you ski on a sunny day, and the bright reflection on the snow gives your vision a bit of a red haze when you stare at it for too long. Makes me just a bit nostalgic for a great ski run.
There were also a couple of bare shoulder cutouts with the drop sleeves trend we’ve seen in other collections this season. One of the dresses had a busy, multi-colored diamond pattern that was very Pilotto playful. A dress for a strong-minded, yet joyful buyer.
There was a rich texture to the collection, with a layered approach – silks, velvets, wools embellished with intricately designed embroideries, lace, piping, and appliques. The silhouettes were relaxed with great movement and a little leg.
While the collection was mostly midi dresses, there are also a few 3/4 sleeve cropped jackets over striped trousers. A blush lurex overcoat has an almost suede treatment in the floral designs of the metallic threads. A couple of 1920’s style low-waist asymmetrical handkerchief dresses showcase the designer’s ability to create incredible layering of textures and patterns, creating a sum total of covet-worthy artistry.