{Paris Fashion Week Spring 17} Saint Laurent

Bad Taste. Anthony Vaccarello chose to show a collection for Saint Laurent centered around bad taste. After taking over as creative director in the wake of Hedi Slimane’s departure, Vaccarello wanted to bring back what the brand had been originally about – girls having fun, breaking the rules…the kind of girl that would take a vintage dress and cut into it. And he imagines this girl would look to the 80’s. So 80’s bad taste. Can you hear me groaning?! Saint Laurent and Kering (the parent company) actually put in a huge budget for this collection….of bad taste 80’s inspired ready to wear.

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Saint Laurent – Photo by Marcus Tondo-Indigital.tv

Ok, so we have to take into account that Vaccarello closed his label to focus on Saint Laurent. So in that way, it’s not YSL as directed by Vaccarello, while he also maintains his other brand. No, it is literally him putting his entire self into this collection. Which, regardless of how one tries to spin it, changes things. In that situation, he will certainly be more heavy handed with his own aesthetic and be more apt to disregard house signatures. On that note….

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Dress (here and here)

The show started with a series of puffed shoulder looks in black leather, and didn’t evolve too far beyond it with bustier tops, velvet mini dresses, skinny smoking suits (which were by far on the more tasteful side of the runway), and a slew of one-shoulder dresses, some trimmed in black lace or animal print. A one-breasted leather mini dress required a silver sequinned pasty to be worn. And through it all, I was just grimacing. When he said bad, he wasn’t kidding.

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Dress

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Dress

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Dress

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Dress

Thankfully, there were a few high points of the collection – the boyfriend jeans, a velvet plunge neck dress, some tapestry embroidered jackets, a mini midnight petal plunge shimmer dress,  the YSL-heeled shoes which will probably be heavy hitters – both gorgeous editorially as well as on the street.

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Dress

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Shoes

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Marcus Tondo – Indigital

The Look ~ Top // Jeans

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