Monique Lhuillier is rethinking how she presents her fashion collections. In this era of major fashion industry evolution, the designer has opted out of a runway show to display her Fall 2017 collection in favor of a lookbook, which can better capture those sumptuous textures and details which can often get lost on runway photos. Think haute catalog. It’s business, after all.
There’s a lot of buzz surrounding the house of Versace right now, with rumors abound of talks between Donatella and Riccardo Tisci to move over in a jump from Givenchy. And did the need for help show obvious in the latest Versace couture collection? Oh no. Not at all.
Bad Taste. Anthony Vaccarello chose to show a collection for Saint Laurent centered around bad taste. After taking over as creative director in the wake of Hedi Slimane’s departure, Vaccarello wanted to bring back what the brand had been originally about – girls having fun, breaking the rules…the kind of girl that would take a vintage dress and cut into it. And he imagines this girl would look to the 80’s. So 80’s bad taste. Can you hear me groaning?! Saint Laurent and Kering (the parent company) actually put in a huge budget for this collection….of bad taste 80’s inspired ready to wear.
Elie Saab sent us on a flashback to the 70’s with his Spring 2017 RTW collection, reliving his childhood memories of his parents’ disco days. As if at any time the runway might turn into a dance party, the models strutted down the runway in loud, fun, colorful, and glitzy pieces obviously meant to make you smile.
How do you take Imperial Russian court dress from the early 20th century and give them the David Koma modernist and sexy edge? On paper, it sounds…perplexing. But completely intriguing, because if anybody can take a concept that is romantic, embellished, and formal, yet make them sharply crisp and sexy at the same time, it’s Koma.
Is the seasonless business of fashion here to stay? We’re in this oddly confusing period where collections are being shown for seasons 6 months away, while other more progressive business-forward brands are selling them now. So the Spring 2017 trends are actually Fall 2016 trends…blended. With the see now, buy now model being announced by the first major brand of Burberry, many other designers followed suit.
When Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody is playing, you know the energy of the collection is going to be high. Infused with the ’70’s vibe, Zuhair Murad‘s Fall 2016 Couture collection broke out of the princess shimmer gown stereotype and went a little rocker, a little hippie chic, and a little Gustav Klimt art piece.
The base looks were very much house Murad, with sheer skintight embroidered body silhouette gowns, jumpsuits, a caftan, mini dresses, and a stunning bridal gown to close the show. The vintage 70’s vibe was infused with ruffled hemlines over thigh high boots, velvet capes, dipped down cartwheel hats, and intricate macrame embroideries.
Karl Lagerfeld is known for creating dreamlike backdrops for his runway shows, and the Fall 16 Couture show was perhaps the apex for most Chanel fans who were there to witness it. Lagerfeld actually flew in the ateliers and their workshops in which the magic of Chanel is made, and gave Chanel coveteurs a chance to witness – during a live runway couture show – the actual process of making couture clothing. Apparently, there was nothing staged about it. He instructed the ateliers to continue their work just as they had back in their actual shop. Um, what?! What an incredible jaw-on-the-floor moment!
The focal point was dreamy movement in Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 16 Couture collection, and to this end, there was a plethora of vintage vibed fringe, beading, pearls, and flowing silks wafting through the halls of her Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré shop.
An incredible departure from Donatella Versace’s house signatures of ultra sexy, amped up embroideries, and logos, the Atelier Fall 16 Couture collection showed powerful pieces that showed off the house’s softer side, with draping, tailoring, and sculpting. The show opened in stellar drama, with Karen Elson in a cinched waist blush cashmere coat lined in mint, with one lapel falling off the shoulder, revealing a scarlet bustier gown underneath.
Versace started with rich and unusual color combinations in crimson, blush, lavendar, grey, and sky blue with mostly long silhouettes, building sculptural and draping details to create long, arcing shapes around the female form.